St.Louis Weapons

[Arcturus]

Hey! How do you guys specifically make yours? They always turn out well, not long, heavy, etc. Whats the secret?

[Freswinn]

Nothing remarkable. I can bring my HD camera to the weapon building when we hold it next.

Don't overestimate your strength with the weight of a sword, because speed is a force multiplier in as equal an amount to mass. You can get the same speed at the end of a swing, but with greater acceleration at lower weight.

Finding comfortable sword length is usually: stand at attention, then measure from palm to floor. That's the length of your sword. Remember that the foam from the pommel and around the tip will increase the length.

Remember that the longer a sword is, the more material goes into it AND the more glue goes into it, so there's a bit of an upward curve to the weight-to-length ratio; furthermore, your leverage against a weapon is decreased as the length increases, regardless of counterweight.

[debuenzo]

To summarize in one word: "Kitespar"

[Freswinn]

Ehh. We have used kitespar, which doesn't stick as well as others. But most of our weapons are rectangular fiberglass or the old Company cores that were shaved for some inexplicable reason. Definitely if you are looking to make a good quality sword you should consider kitespar, but I'm just point out that that's not what most of our swords actually are.

[debuenzo]

I'm guessing the swords that he's thinking of are.

Arc, minimize excess foam and tape. Make 30" overall swords: 22" blade (or 14" blade +8" incidental pad), 6" handle, 2" pommel. Fiberglass is the best core that's readily available. Use 3/8" or 1/2" PVC if you have to.

[Demox]

Counterweight, most important thing. You could have an 18oz sword but if it's counterweighted well it feels like one of the whip sticks. Go to a hardware store and look for barstock and attach that to the handle. Good way to oblong the handle and add a good counterweight

[Freswinn]

Counterweight is very good, but make sure not to make it so counterweighted that the balance point is in the handle (which is against the rules anyway). About 10% up the blade is what I use; provides plenty of weight for hanging blocks.

[Demox]

I usually shoot for right where the blade and handle meet. When I make swords tho they always end up being really tip heavy so it ends up being farther up

[Arcturus]

)o0o yay! Fres I Would like to see some video just for a visual. Counterweighting, how does one achieve such beautiful standards?

Im hearing two different lengths for swrods, on from Fres and the more specific from Porno. What's biggest difference b/w 3/8 and 1/2?

Porno the swords with the incidental, "14inch blade," are these the ones I happen to pick up and use of yours all the time? Pics?

[Olos]

Eh, PVC is terrible. Go with 1/2 inch fiberglass (should be able to find at like rurul type Tractor supply company places), or square fiberglass in 3/8"x3/8" or 3/8"x1/2"

Porno mentioned excess foam and tape, that is HUGE to a "clean" looking weapon, and will help keep weight down too. Make sure your cuts are straight and measured right. You shouldn't really need tape other than maybe 1 layer on the flat.

Excess glue is HUGE too. DAP should be applied in a very thin coat (plus it sticks better this way), and allowed to dry to the point of not being tacky anymore (on both surfaces) before being pressed together. Extra dap will weigh your weapon down fast.


For counterweighting, a bolt in the pommel is nice and easy with kitespar or pvc. Pennies on the handle is what I use on my reds, or you can wrap gorilla tape around the handle/pommel.

[Aratus]

Dap over spray glue?

[Demox]

I wouldnt recommend spray glue on a blade.

[Draggeron Ascholie]

i actually had better luck with spray glue vs dap for blades. that was my experience, individual results may vary

[Xavier]

Spray glue for me works as well. As long as you wait till both surfaces are tacky.

[Aratus]

The only reason I shy'd away from DAP on blades was because it can dry hard and fail weapons...